This expedition would prove to be the ultimate test for both my patched up rigging and the endurance of the first mate and crew.
As the crow flies our destination at the Washademoak Lake, Rocky Oaks, is only 33 miles away but as the river flows a further 12 miles would be added at the very least, and there would be tidal currents, two sets of cable ferries and rocky shoals to negotiate.
An early start was in order and there was only a hint of a breeze as the first mate and crew filled my cuddy with provisions and equipment. By the time we set sail there was still nobody stirring at RKYC and we slipped seemingly unnoticed off our mooring.
Around two hundred yards out a sailboat was anchored and from it a man shouted a greeting, promised us good sailing weather and asked where we were heading. Our response of Washademoak Lake did not seem to shock him, despite the rate in which we slowly drifted by.
An hour later the first mate and crew were still in good cheer despite having just entered Grand Bay and still being able to clearly see RKYC. The new heading of north west barely quickened the pace as we passed the town of Grand Bay Westfield to our west and watched the ferries on the horizon busily shuttling the daily commuters on their way to work in Saint John across from the Kingston Peninsula.
Apart from the ferries we seemed to be the only boat on the river. By the time we reached the path in the river where the ferry crossed, the daily commute was over and one of the ferries was being rested on the Kingston Peninsula side of the river. This would make the crossing of the ferries' path much easier and the sailing conditions, which were also improving as the wind was being funneled as the river narrowed, would also help.
Once the ferries were passed it was only a short distance before the river made an almost 90 degree angle change of direction and our bearing changed from heading north to heading east. At this point the full scale of the Long Reach could be appreciated. This stretch of the river runs the whole length of the Kingston Peninsula right to the horizon 17 miles away.
With the wind calm, once again, and the sun shimmering off the ripples of the river, it seemed that we would be able to appreciate every picturesque church steeple, every charming wooden lighthouse and every one of the scattered communities that are dotted along both of the forested banks of the river. By now, however, the peace and tranquility of the scene was being shattered by the thunderous bass of powerboats.
The western half of the Long Reach is strangely bereft of islands, but passed the mid-point there is an archipelago of islets. It seems that the explorers who named these islands were becoming more jaded as they headed east. The western island is called Caton's Island, while to the east of this island are located the Isle of Pines, Rush Island and Grassy Island.
This stretch of the river is the most challenging section of the Long Reach with extensive shallows and Oak Point jutting out from the northern bank to near the mid-point of the river. It was at Oak Point where we were passed by a most impressive motor yacht towing along its tender, which itself was twice my size. The wake the motor yacht produced sent me on a two minute roller-coaster ride that at least woke me from my slumber.
After passing the final island before the eastern point of Long Reach there is a dead-end devised to snag unwary sailors. Appropriately enough this is called Mistake Cove, although to fall for its deception one must be either asleep, drunk or blind.
It is beyond the entrance to Mistake Cove when the river finally narrows and heads north. Here it is tempting to sail into the wide waters of Bellisle Bay, which extends the west-east direction of Long Reach by a further 11 miles.
The section of the St. John River that runs north from Long Reach feels more like a "normal" river, and despite the wind remaining light, the landscape moved by at a quicker pace past broken down public wharves.
The Evandale Inn and Restaurant is a honey-pot for recreational powerboat and motor cruiser crews. To reach its extensive docks that are located adjacent to the resort one must negotiate the cable ferry that to my eyes seemed to zip back and forth rapidly across the narrow channel. However, we tacked across the ferry's stern and continued our journey north.
The wind was at last increasing and with the current on our side we sailed at a rapid rate past the low lying spoon island (shaped like an old spoon), and Long Island (long, but not as long as the Kennebecasis River's Long Island). On the banks the gentle sloping fertile land had meant the forest had been replaced by farmland and the associated charming farms and barns. The crew took advantage of the sailing conditions to slumber in my cockpit and rest her head on my cuddy.
Three quarters down the Eastern side of Long Island we branch off to the east. This was the Washademoak Creek, which led into the Washademoak Lake. By the time we were passing the buoys that marked the entrance into the lake, dusk was quickly approaching. Given the ideal sailing conditions, a decision was made to head towards our destination at Rocky Oaks, now only six miles away. But, as often happens as the sun starts to set, the wind subsided and the first mate and crew decided to head towards the public wharf marked on the chart as being less than a mile away.
The first mate and crew scoured the banks of the lake in the failing light looking for the wharf, then finally admitting defeat made do with anchoring at a sheltered point they named "mosquito cove". Throughout their uncomfortable night the first mate and crew slept little in the cramped conditions on the bottom of my cockpit covered only by mosquito repellant and a tent flysheet that was tied loosely to my boom.
Day 2: Journey to Big Cove
At dawn the first mate and crew were awoken by a herd of cows and their young rampaging through the undergrowth to take a look at the bedraggled spectacle anchored at the edge of their summer pasture.
The first mate and crew raised anchor at 6:30am, and with the dawn air cool and gentle on my sails we headed out onto the lake. It took two hours to cover the six miles to Rocky Oaks, which is located opposite Big Cove.
A man rowed out on an inflatable dinghy (they called him Captain Damp), he paid me some compliments and he gave the first mate and crew advice on where to drop anchor. He then ferried them and their camping equipment to the steep wooden walkway that led up to Rocky Oaks above.
It was mid-afternoon before the first mate and crew returned. The wind was up, and they brought Captain Damp with them to experience a sailing excursion aboard me. We sped across the mile wide Washademoak Lake and into Big Cove. Other small recreational boats were also enjoying the favourable sailing conditions as we sailed around the unoriginally called Pine Island (not to be confused with the Isle of Pines etc). Captain Damp then took my tiller and we tacked back and forth back to Rocky Oaks.
That evening, from my mooring on the lake, I could hear much joviality from the direction of Rocky Oaks. The first mate and crew were at last able to relax after their journey. I guessed that given the previous night's experience that their stamina would wain and I was proven right. Long before the rest of the lake was quiet on the barmy evening there was silence, bar a muffled snore, from the direction of Rocky Oaks.
Day 3: The Journey Home, Part 1
Captain Damp ferried the camping equipment, first mate and crew back to me in the morning and we all said our farewells as we set sail significantly later than on the previous two days. I estimated that unless sailing conditions were perfect we were planning for a two day voyage back to RKYC.
Within 10 minutes the wind had dropped and the crew and first mate decided to make for Mott's Landing. There was much cursing when they arrived as the public wharf would have provided a perfect location for a night's camping instead of "Mosquito Cove". There was even a secluded beach complete with a swimming platform.
About an hour later the wind picked back up and we optimistically sailed out onto the lake. Once again, after about 10 minutes the wind dropped. There was now not even a whisper of a breeze, just silence and the sun's sharp light glaring down on the mirror like surface of the lake. The crew and first mate, after much discussion, both started to paddle for the buoys that marked the entrance and now exit to the lake.
It was after lunch time before we eventually approached the buoys. It was clear that there may not be a breeze, but there was certainly a current thwarting their paddling efforts. A sailboat in the creek had spotted their desperation and had turned around to come and offer us assistance. The first mate was too proud and stupid to accept. He preached that we would all overcome this obstacle together and that failure was not an option.
We were obviously facing an obstacle that had its origins in the Bay of Fundy; the highest tides in the world. These tides were not too discernible in the wide channels downstream, but in the narrow creek that fed in and out of the Washademoak Lake had been magnified once again to become a mighty adversary to our progress.
Eventually, after much perspiration, the first mate and crew entered the narrow waters of Colwell Creek and then, 400 yards later, Washademoak Creek. Here, the wind had picked up and blew in the same direction as the tide. The crew and first mate were glad to rid themselves of the paddles, and with sheets pulled in tight we tacked back and forth innumerable times. For every three yards gained, two were lost to the current, and we had little time to enjoy the plethora of wildlife that seemed to be displaying on the creek. Ospreys and eagles seemed more common than crows and massive salmon leaped like dolphins to bask in the sunshine for a second or two before disappearing once again into the current. Eventually we broke free into the St. John River.
The tacking continued. It seemed that the wind would always be blowing upstream on our journey home, and now as the St. John River widened the tacking swept from one bank to another as we passed by Long Island and, this time, down the narrower channel at Spoon Island.
We were able to sail parallel to the east bank of the river on the final mile to where the Evandale ferry crossed the river. With the wind still against us, the wind rising, and the river widening there were more exciting sailing conditions as we entered the Long Reach. The current and wind provided us with much spray in the cockpit as my hull bounced against the chop of the waves caused by the meeting of Long Reach, Bellisle Bay and the narrower stretch of river from which we had just sailed.
The decision had been made to moor at one of the first public wharves on the sheltered south bank of Long Reach, but we knew that this was still several miles of hard tacking away. The river became rough once more in the moderate winds and disturbed waters around Oak Point. After we had passed this location we traversed the river to the southern bank to locate the public wharf making sure to miss the extensive shallows that stretched for more than a mile south west of Grassy Island. We had earlier ran aground in the mud off Mistake Cove (a schoolboy error rather than a mistake). We didn't want to make the same mistake again in choppy waters hundreds of yards away from either bank.
The light was already beginning to fade when the public wharf was finally spotted and we sailed toward its more sheltered eastern side. The first mate and crew wearily pulled their camping equipment from my cuddy and disappeared into the gloom to camp on the adjacent beach.
Day 4: The Journey Home, Part 2
The morning was, in sharp contrast to the others, misty and murky. There had been light rain in the morning and as soon as this had ended the first mate and crew had emerged from their makeshift camp on the beach, damp, sullen and no doubt aching from the previous days long sailing.
The grey weather had not meant an increase in wind speed. As we set out into the dull mist not another boat could be heard or seen on the river. As we tacked slowly, gradually making our way downstream we never did meet another boat. We had 10 square miles of the Long Reach to ourselves to and no-one to share the melancholy conditions.
By lunchtime we had made it to the end of Long Reach and could see the shadowy forms of the ferries ticking back and forth between Kingston Peninsula and the town of Grand Bay Westfield. In these conditions, with a lack of wind, two ferries crossing at relatively supersonic speed was going to prove a challenge and the first mate and crew had the best part of an hour to weigh-up the challenge as we gradually sailed towards these ferries apparently guarding against our homeward voyage.
We came in close quarters to the ferries, but every time we thought we could cross, we had to tack away as the other ferry made its return voyage laden with a couple of cars. Eventually, we made it across and with relief settled down to the frustratingly slow final stretch past Kennebecasis Island and into the Kennebecasis River.
As we finally pulled onto the sheltered waters off RKYC in the mid-afternoon the sun made an appearance and we watched the dinghies racing around the buoys and sometimes capsizing in the wind. In the same wind we zipped back to our mooring and realised that of the over 50 miles of sailing over the last four days the best conditions for sailing were those last 400 yards.